Livewells for Pontoon Boats: Installation and Maintenance

Picture your fishing trip’s success, only to find your hard-earned catch sluggish or worse by the time you get back to the dock. A functional livewell is what separates a good pontoon fishing rig from a great one—it’s not a luxury cooler; it’s a life support system for your catch.

For serious anglers, a livewell (or baitwell) is as essential as rods and reels. It’s an aerated tank that uses circulated, oxygenated water to keep fish and live bait healthy and vigorous from the moment you catch them until you release or clean them. On a pontoon, installing and maintaining one requires a bit of extra planning due to the unique layout and those big tubes underneath, but it’s a completely doable project that pays off every single trip.

Why a Livewell is Non-Negotiable for Anglers

Simply tossing fish into a bucket or a standard cooler is a recipe for dead fish. Water quickly becomes depleted of oxygen and builds up harmful ammonia from fish waste. A proper livewell solves this with two key systems:

• Aeration: A pump or aerator injects fresh air (oxygen) into the water, creating bubbles that keep the water oxygenated.
• Recirculation & Water Exchange: A system that constantly pumps in fresh lake or river water while draining out the old, dirty water. Many systems have a recirculate mode for when you’re running at high speed (to avoid taking on too much water) and a freshwater mode for when you’re stationary or trolling.

For tournament anglers, keeping fish alive until weigh-in is a matter of rules and ethics. For casual anglers, it ensures the fish you choose to keep are of the highest quality for the table.

Step-by-Step: Installing a Livewell on Your Pontoon

Installing a livewell is a rewarding weekend project. The key is planning the layout to work with your pontoon’s structure.

Step 1: Choose Your Livewell Type & Location
You have two main choices: a drop-in portable cooler-style livewell or a built-in, permanent system.

• Drop-In Cooler Kits: These are the easiest. You purchase an insulated cooler (like a Yeti or Igloo) and a livewell conversion kit that includes a pump, aerator, plumbing, and lid. You then simply secure the cooler to your deck. Great for smaller pontoons or anglers who want flexibility.
• Built-In System: This involves installing a dedicated, plumbed tank (often 20-50 gallons) into your boat’s structure. This is more complex but offers greater capacity, a cleaner look, and is often insulated.

The location is critical. You need to consider:

• Weight Distribution: A full 30-gallon livewell weighs over 250 pounds. Place it centrally, near the boat’s center of gravity, to avoid affecting the pontoon’s balance.
• Access to Water: You must be able to run a hose from through the deck to a through-hull fitting below the waterline on one of the pontoon tubes.
• Deck Access: Ensure you have space to lift the lid and net fish easily, without it interfering with seating or walkways.

Step 2: Install the Through-Hull Fitting & Pump
This is the most important—and most intimidating—part. You are drilling a hole in your boat, so precision is key.

1. Select the Spot: On the inside face of one of the outer pontoon tubes, near the stern, choose a spot that will be below the waterline when the boat is at rest but above it when on plane. This ensures water flows in only when you want it to.
2. Drill the Hole: Using a hole saw bit, drill a clean hole for the through-hull fitting. Go slow and be exact.
3. Seal and Mount: Apply a generous amount of marine-grade sealant (like 3M 4200) to the fitting and the inside of the hole. Screw the fitting tightly into place from the outside. This fitting will have a screen to keep out debris.
4. Attach the Pump: Connect your livewell pump (a 500-1100 GPH pump is typical) to the inside of the through-hull fitting. The pump will now pull water directly from the lake.

Step 3: Run Plumbing & Install the Tank

1. Connect Hose: Run flexible marine hose from the pump up through the deck and into the livewell tank. Use hose clamps on every connection.
2. Mount the Tank: Secure your tank (cooler or built-in) in its chosen location. For built-ins, you may need to build a supporting frame.
3. Create the Drain/Overflow: Your tank needs two outlets:
   • A Drain Plug at the very bottom to empty the tank completely.
   • An Overflow Pipe near the top. This pipe determines the water level in the tank; any excess water drains out here and is usually routed out the side of the boat via another through-hull fitting.

Step 4: Wire the Pump & Aerator

1. Connect to Power: You’ll need a dedicated 12V switch on your console. Run wires from your boat’s battery (using an in-line fuse!) to the switch, and then to the pump and any separate aerator.
2. Test the System: With the boat in the water, turn on the system. You should see a strong flow of water coming in, filling the tank to the level of the overflow pipe.

Pro Tip from a Marine Technician: “Never use household PVC cement or silicone on a boat. Always use marine-grade sealant like 3M 4200 for through-hulls and 3M 5200 for truly permanent bonds. The 5200 is so strong you’ll need a grinder to remove it, so use it wisely!”

The Critical Maintenance Routine: Keeping Your System Alive

A neglected livewell is worse than no livewell at all. Stagnant water breeds bacteria and can kill fish quickly.

After Every Trip:

• Drain and Rinse: Completely drain the tank. Rinse it thoroughly with fresh water, using a mild, non-toxic boat soap if needed. Scrub any visible slime or debris.
• Run the System: While rinsing, run the pump and aerator with fresh water for a few minutes to flush the plumbing lines.
• Dry It Out: Leave the lid open to allow the interior to air dry completely. This prevents mold and mildew.

Monthly/Seasonal Maintenance:

• Inspect the Pump: Check the pump intake for debris or weeds that could clog the impeller.
• Check the Aerator: Ensure the air stone or venturi aerator is not clogged with mineral deposits. Soak it in a vinegar solution to clean it.
• Test All Switches and Wiring: Ensure electrical connections are clean, dry, and corrosion-free.

End-of-Season Winterization:

• Pump RV/Marine Antifreeze: This is crucial. Drain all water, then use a bucket to pump non-toxic RV antifreeze through the entire system until pink antifreeze comes out the overflow and drain. This protects the pump and plumbing from freezing and cracking.

Livewell Sizing Guide & Product Comparison

Choosing the right size and features depends on your fishing style. Here’s a quick guide:

Livewell Type / Example Model	Best For	Key Features	Approx. Cost	Installation Level
Portable Cooler Kit (Frabill 13-Gallon Cooler Kit)	Casual anglers, smaller pontoons, bait storage.	Includes pump, aerator, hose; fits standard cooler.	$150 – $250	Easy (Minimal tools, no through-hull required if using a pump you lower overboard).
Mid-Size Drop-In (Kodiak 25-Gallon Oval)	Dedicated anglers, weekend tournaments.	Oval shape fits pontoon benches, insulated, built-in aeration.	$300 – $500	Moderate (Requires through-hull fitting and wiring).
Large Built-In System (Custom 40+ Gallon)	Serious tournament anglers, large groups.	Fully plumbed, high-capacity, integrated into deck.	$800 – $2,000+	Advanced (Requires carpentry, precise plumbing, and electrical work).

Pontoon Livewell FAQs

Can I just use a big aerated bucket?
For very short durations or minimal bait, yes. But for holding fish for hours, especially in summer heat, a true recirculating/oxygenating livewell is far superior. The constant water exchange is key.

My livewell water is getting warm. What can I do?
Warm water holds less oxygen. For built-in systems, you can add an optional livewell chiller unit. For all systems, adding frozen water bottles to the tank is a simple, effective trick to lower the temperature.

How many gallons do I really need?
A good rule of thumb is 5-8 gallons of water per pound of fish. For panfish, a 15-20 gallon well is fine. For holding several bass or walleye, aim for 25-40 gallons.

What if I don’t want to drill into my pontoon tubes?
You can use a transom-mounted pump that hangs over the back of the boat. However, these are more vulnerable to damage from debris and may not work as well when the boat is not moving.

Are there any chemicals I should use?
Yes, livewell treatment chemicals (like Please Release Me or Rejuvenade) are recommended. They reduce fish stress, remove chlorine from tap water if you’re filling at home, and help control slime and bacteria in the tank. Always follow the dosage instructions.

Installing and maintaining a livewell transforms your pontoon from a simple boat into a true fishing vessel. It’s an investment in the health of your catch and the success of every trip. Start with a plan, take your time with the installation, and commit to the simple maintenance routine. Your future self—and your fish—will thank you.

Do you run a livewell on your pontoon? What’s your #1 tip for keeping fish healthy? Let us know in the comments!